Yes I have. I went with Clipsal Wiser. Clipsal Wiser in Australia. Can it be integrated into HA? - #17 by tom_l
If you like the DIN rail mounted style, and you think you might want to also monitor a couple of individual circuits, you can also use something like the Shelly Pro 3EM. Note that even though itās a 3-phase energy meter, you can just treat the 3 readings as separate circuits in HA. Iāve done exactly this, with one clamp measuring the whole house supply, and the other 2 clamps measuring individual circuits. The only downside to this is that the Shelly app adds all 3 readings to give you a āWhole houseā reading, but I just ignore that and reference the separate readings in HA.
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Does that mean you donāt need a bypass to prevent flickering?
Theoretically yes.
Setting the minimum ballast level just high enough to keep the two wire dimmer operating and selecting the right dimmer type should prevent flicker.
However I don;t think that helps when the light is off. So if your lights draw too little current when off you may also need an external ballast to prevent the lights flickering.
Iām using Clipsal downlights with clipsal dimmers and am still playing with those values on a couple of 4x light circuits.
They donāt āflickerā as such but occasionally my auto-light brightness automation causes a noticeable brief dip in brightness at the lower brightness levels (< 20%). Itās not the auto-brightness value (that is quite smooth) but Iām beginning to suspect the dimmer does not like receiving updates too frequently.
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Thanks that all makes sense. There are some good features. Iām really contemplating these or the oz smart zigbee dimmer modules. At 1/3 the price. Did you contemplate any other dimmer modules? What made you go for these in the end?
Yeah I looked at those. I think they might have been out of stock when I was ready to buy.
You are right thanks Dave - I checked and have a 63A main circuit breaker.
I do like the DIN rail mounting actually, and I was surprised that Shelly doesnāt seem to do a single channel 120A DIN mounted EM. I would also prefer a newer generation device than the Shelly EM, which is still Gen 1. I did not realise that the 3-phase meter could just be used for 3 separate circuits, so that looks like the best solution so far - thanks!
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My single phase house has a 100A mains fuse.
Suburban Sydney, built 1991.
(I respect your experience @sparkydave, Iām just providing extra data to help people select the right solution for them)
Apparently Shelly are announcing some new products in a live stream tomorrow (March 5, 17:00 CET). I wonder if there will be some updated Pro models.
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Good to know, thanks! Iāll be very interested to read about what they announce.
Fair enough. Like I said, āusuallyā, but given the CT values that can be purchased, either way you would go with a 100A CT.
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BTW, I was just poking around my Shelly dashboard, and it looks like they recently added a feature that lets you properly use the Pro 3EM in mono-phase mode. I enabled it for mine, and it now splits the device into 3 separate ones in the dashboard, allowing you to customize the name of each channel, and no longer adding the values together as if they were in a 3-phase system.
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hi all - can anyone recommend the latest smart switch dimmer to use with LED downlights? Iām looking at the Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer switches but i dont think they are available in Australia. and they are 110volt i believe
love the look of them and how diff they are to the older models.
Edit. Looks like this could work nicely. Mercator.SSWRM-WIFI_Mercator Ikuu Smart Rotary Dimmer Mechanism Wi-Fi
However I like the candeo ones better only because I can find a YouTube review from the smart home guy and they look amazing.
I wonder if anyone has used the ikuu rotary dimmers here ? I spoke with Ikuu and they confirmed that it dims but thereās no push button on this so you canāt turn the lights on and off seems like Candeo is the way to go
thank you
That is incorrect. These DO have a push button function to turn the device on and off.
It even says so on the product page:
āIncludes push buttonā
I have deployed a few of these through my home.
They are Tuya based Zigbee or WiFi devices and work quite well.
Whirlpool forums have a lot of good information and experience on these.
https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/3xkkrq89
Home Assistant integration is provided by:
A) a core Tuya Cloud Integration,
B) a local Tuya network integration via HACS:
C) a Zigbee2MQQT integration directly to the device.
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Oh well thank you I was confused as it I saw it said that but they said it doesnāt so yeah.
I would definitely want to run this directly to home assistant on the zha or zig2mqtt. Awesome.
This is good to know Iāll be looking at doing my entire house with these as I currently have lifx. However my family and partner would like to be able to control them as they get quite annoyed with my automation.
How happy are you with them?
Iām not seeing where it says itās push button tho. IkuĆ¼ Smart Zigbee Rotary Dimmer Mechanism ā Mercator
Strange that that page fails to mention the push button feature, but this page definitely mentions it:
Rotary Dimmer Mechanism | IkuĆ¼
I also have a couple of the Zigbee versions installed, paired directly with a Hubitat hub, and they work quite well.
Just be aware (if youāre not already) that the Ikuu switches and dimmers are designed to control a normal electrical load, NOT a smart device.
That is, it expects to see a standard LED or incandescent (dimmable) light as the load.
Your LIFX lights will need to be able to operate as ādumbā lights for the Dimmer Switches to work properly.
Switching off the light will cut power to the LIFX globe, rendering it offline until power is restored.
You CAN ALSO program Home Assist to trigger other automations or scenes when the switch is pressed, but thatās another story.
Yeah, very.
They have a great home acceptance factor because they look and feel like a normal Dimmer.
It allows the family and friends to use the lights manually as expected, and allows me to automate things behind the scene.
Is the HA automation able to override the physical dimmer setting?
For example if I wanted to implement a morning wake automation that gradually raises the brightness, but the light was last turned off with the dimmer set to maximum brightness, will light first turn on at max brightness?