Okay, I have to admit, the fan is starting to drive me crazy. What’s the current best practice to rewire the fan to run on constant power while using the D1-mini mod? Snip the fan cables, then hook up red directly to the 3V3 pin and black to the G pin of the D1?
Anyone else noticed this? I currently have 4 units sat next to each other as I’m trying to tweak the offsets in ESPHOME so they read as similarly as possible. I know about the accuracy not being great, my aim is for a basic indication across 4 different rooms so I’d like them to be as close to each other as possible.
So after a few days I’m pretty happy but I’ve noticed something odd whilst doing this.
Randomly 2 of the units will suddenly dip or jump, by maybe by 10-15ug, so I get a very noticeable step in the output at low levels. If you leave it long enough it will eventually “reset” and lose that offset itself. 1 unit goes high and one goes low. The other 2 are oddly pretty bang on with each other.
Obviously not a major problem, just wondered if anyone else had experienced this?
Thanks for that. Its just odd that 2 out of 4 do it, and why at random times. I’ll try my best to ignore it from now on.
Hi…
Question… I have 2 IKEA Vindriktning up and running.
One directly connected to PCB board and one where I connected the PM1006 sensor directly to a Wemos D1 Mini …
However…
The wemos connected to the PCB show 00 µg/m³ with a few movments up and down.
The Wemos directly connected to the sensor seems a lot more active.
It goes from 65 to around 45 µg/m³… Does this mean that it is more accurate or is something wrong?
See my post #133. I only reconnected the red wire to 3V3.
The fan only turns on when a measurement is done (switching transistor is on GND side of the fan…), but on lower speed and without noise.
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@drkavnger99 I have to see how it works across winter till now with temps dropping lowest to 2°C at night i dont have a problem.
Regarding the measurements, what i see is that it heavily depends on the humidity value.
With 60% or less air humidity the readings seem to be reasonable, if i compare them to other PM2.5 detectors in the city.
I mean thats why professional detectors dry the air before measurement etc. And we shouldnt forget that this is a detector which you buy for 10€ in a retail market.
Great, thanks! I did this yesterday and you’re right, it works fine. Hooked up to 3V3 the fan is inaudible, even when it turns on and off intermittently for the measurements.
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Yes, I confirm that this is the way i am doing and it seems to work fine.
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Does anyone have a PM1006 directly connected to their ESP?
There is a significant differance when using the PCB or directly connected to the ESP …
Hello, I also carried out this project, the details are in my blog:
Thank you for all your information
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It’s done, thank you
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Slightly off topic, sorry for that, but is your Vindriktning as noisy as main is? I can hear it quite clearly, so I don’t know if I have a faulty one or if it is the way they are. Also, mine turns on the fan every 10 seconds and the fan stays on for 23 seconds. So I can hear the noise pretty much all the time. What is your experience? Thanks!
Don’t worry, it is not. It has been discussed before. Here is one post about a solution.
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I found the the pm1006 module inside is quite rubbish… Got 3 of them to test out, each one of them shows different results.
Ended up buying a PMS5003 module istead… Wow, that make a differance.
Got values for each particle size.
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Did you put it inside the Vindriktning case?
Both…
1 is connected directly to the pm sensor.
1 is connected to IKEA pcb (inside)
1 is connected to IKEA pcb outside the case.
Can you show some photos…how you fit everything (ESP, PMS5003) inside the case?
I dont use the IKEA case. Bought from amazon some plastic housings.
Edit: But you gave me an idea… Will try to fit the PMS and EPS in the IKEA housing… 
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