Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Nice. Thanks.

The 4 lights will be wired in parallel with the switch wiring going to the ‘first’ of the four (whichever end that may be) and then simply daisy-chained to the rest of them. The smart device will need to be at the ‘first’ light where the switch wiring originates.

I’ll give it a go. Installing now :smile:

EDIT: not having any luck with the Jinvoo app to try and get the local key etc. I get a network error and no device detected. I’ll have to try other options another day when I have more time

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Sorry if I missed it, but what’s the latest with Bunnings / Deta Grid connect devices, can they be integrated easily into HA using Tuya convert or other? thanks

Hey all. I’ve been on a bit of a Bunnings and Kmart tuya buying spree over the last couple of weeks, just found this thread and thought I’d summarise my experiences based on what’s on the shelves in early Dec 2020.

Still compatible with tuya-convert OTA (old PSK format)

Mirabella Genio B22 Warm White - $13

(can’t post more than 2 links as I’m a new user)
It “just works”.
GPIO14: PWM warm white output

Mirabella Genio E27 Colour - $24

(can’t post more than 2 links as I’m a new user)
Despite being packaged as RGBW, the bulb actually appears to be the newer RGBWW revision that normally costs $1 more: https://www.kmart.com.au/product/mirabella-genio-wi-fi-dimmable-9w-led-bulb/3328301
This uses a SM2135 connected via I2C to drive the LEDs, which my flatmate has managed to get working with esphome to some extent.
GPIO12: I2C SDA
GPIO14: I2C SCL

Not compatible with tuya-convert, required disassembly to flash

Mirabella Genio RGBWW downlight - $25

(can’t post more than 2 links as I’m a new user)
Tuya TYWE2L and SM2135 LED driver
Presumably the same pin assignment as the SM2135 based bulb above, however I’m yet to actually configure this one beyond seeing esphome connecting to the network.

Deta 10W 92mm RGBWW downlight - $32

(can’t post more than 2 links as I’m a new user)
Tuya TYWE2L
GPIO4: PWM green
GPIO5: PWM red
GPIO12: PWM warm white
GPIO13: PWM blue
GPIO14: PWM cold white

Arlec 9W 92mm RGBWW downlight - $22.90

(can’t post more than 2 links as I’m a new user)
Tuya TYWE5P
GPIO4: PWM cold white
GPIO5: PWM warm white
GPIO12: PWM red
GPIO13: PWM blue
GPIO14: PWM green

There’s little differentiating the Arlec and Deta downlights except that the Deta has brighter RGB output, and costs $9 more. Personally I was buying 8 of these for use together in a room, so I stocked up on Arlec ones as RGB is just a party trick and I don’t care if it’s bit dim. Give the Mirabella a miss, software support for the LED driver is immature, the main PCB seems cheaply designed, and it costs $2 more than the Arlec.

Not ESP based… but that won’t stop me trying

Arlec 130cm “Smart Boston” ceiling fan - $209

https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-130cm-4-blade-grid-connect-smart-dc-ceiling-fan-with-led-light-and-remote_p0194519

I was motivated by reports of the Brilliant Bahama and other Tuya based fans working, and decided to try my luck with this cheaper Tuya smart fan. Even cheaper than the “dumb” Hunter Pacific Polar fans I was planning to buy 3 of, and it supports fine control of dimming and the colour temperature that would be ideal for use with the flux Home Assistant component.

After getting home and being quite satisfied by the operation of the dumb functions of the fan and the supplied RF remote, I unsuccessfully tried to flash with tuya-convert OTA. Disassembled the controller to discover a Realtek-based Tuya WR4 module on a small daughterboard. Damn it!

Undeterred, I’ve since hooked up an ESP-01 module in place of the original WiFi module and was able to get esphome talking with the MCU on the board, with full control of the fan functionality exposed via this interface. I’ve submitted PRs to add summer/winter fan direction control and colour temperature control to esphome. This all works great, and cooperates with the MCU such that the state in Home Assistant is updated instantly when receiving control input from the original RF remote. Most of the credit belongs to those before me who have done the hard work to add Tuya support in esphome, I’ve just added a bit of glue to fully exploit the Arlec fan.

The fan’s still in bits on my workbench as the ESP-01 doesn’t fit in the original controller enclosure, so I’ve also designed a very simple replacement WiFi daughterboard PCB that should be able to accommodate an ESP-07S module to fit within the original fan controller enclosure and connect with the orignal U.FL 2.4GHz antenna. I’ll report back here if this was successful, if so I’ll have ~45 spare boards so I’m happy to post one for a token amount to any other Aussies who want to try and convert their Arlec smart fans.

10 Likes

Can confirm these Brilliant Plugs from Officeworks can be flashed via Tuya-Convert. Just picked some up today and swapped out my last 2 Gen 1 Kogan power monitoring plugs.

The power reporting seems a little more stable as well, not as many spikes and drops as the Kogan’s reported. Nice small unit and seem well built.

2 Likes

Borto wrote:

I’ve just purchased the updated version of the 2m ARLEC Grid Connect LED strip (ALD256HA) from Bunnings for $30

The same chip that’s in their 800 bud LED string.

No way to add it other than TuyaLocal.

Since I had no luck getting the local key I had a hunt through the local tuya thread and found this, so I’ll give that a try when I have time. I just thought I’d link to it here if it helps someone.

1 Like

@sparkydave

I was having trouble getting local keys for a while.

This is what I ended up doing on Windows pc.

First download + install node.js

Then you can follow these instructions.

Which basically involves setting up a project in iota.tuya.com

You setup a project, link your tuya account, and set the 3 required api bits needed from the setup link.

Then run these two commands in Windows command terminal window in administrator mode

npm i @tuyapi/cli -g

tuya-cli wizard

The first 10 mins of this youtube helps with iota and commands bit

You need to run the commands from the installation directory…

So likely…

C:/username/roaming or similar

Username being your local computer name.

Fyi
‘Tuya custom’ integration seems better for rgb lights if you want a color wheel

2 Likes

Yup - easy. I connect mechanically for the first flash though and use ESPHome which makes HA integration a snap. I have about 5 of these, including Fan/light and power outlets.

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Well done! - I was just looking at these and was about to buy one. I’ll be in for one of your boards - please let me know !

Wait, does this allow you to do the NPM stuff on Windows? I tried to follow this for my Arlec LED strip, and succeeded in the iota.tuya.com setup, but could not get past the CLI stuff on my Linux box. All sorts of issues with NPM permmissions, Git and SSH. I just gave up in the end.

I’d love to be able to do this on Windows.

@Roboman

Yes node.js has a Windows installation. Once installed you can do the npm and cli commands from a administrator Windows command window, in the correct directory ofc.

wizard

That’s fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing. I wasted so much time trying (and failing) to get this running using my “Google it, then just copy and paste” Linux ‘skills’.

I’m really looking forward to using Windows for this.Thanks again.

1 Like

Not sure if others have tried Kogan Smart Plugs recently but it looks like the FW has been updated so unable to flash :frowning:

image

That’s why I like the Brilliant smart plugs from Officeworks… not sure why, but they’re still on super old firmware. I bought another yesterday and flashed OTA using tuya-convert without any issues.

1 Like

Yep, found that out a couple of weeks ago. Even using a serial connection to the chip won’t work.

Thanks sparkydave. I missed that part of the thread but have caught up now. Looks like it was supplied with the latest fw of 1.1.7. Might be a while before there is a workaround (if any).

Looking at the Tuya-Convert Git discussions I don’t think we will see a new release for a long time, if at all. The discussion seems to have died completely.